In green woodworking, chair parts are 'busted' out of a log... that is to say the parts are split and riven from the log with wedges and edge tools, rather than being sawn. Why is this significant? Saws, especially power saws do not care if they cut across the grain severing the long wood fibers that run the length of the log. When you cut the long wood fibers you create weak spots. However, when you leave the long wood fibers intact the resulting piece is stronger and more flexible. You can shave these parts very thin without losing strength. These green woodworking techniques have been used for hundreds of years. It is a satisfying way to work. And the resulting chair is light, refined and strong.
Even though the techniques of green woodworking have been around for hundreds of years, that doesn't mean we can't use modern machines. Here we are dragging a log out of the woods.
The log is split in half with wedges and sledge hammer. (It's actually easier then it seems.) The cross cut ends of these logs are treated with a sealant that retards moisture loss. These logs can remain usable for several months.
Here a post billet is being riven from a bolt (section of log). A froe and froe club are used to help guide the split along the natural fibers. The bolt is held in place with the aid of a riving brake.
Chair parts are shaped to approximate size at the shave horse using drawknives and spokeshaves, then stacked and air dried.
These rear posts have been shaved to approximate size then steam bent. They are air drying in their bending forms until the bend sets.
In green woodworking some parts are air dried and some are kiln dried. It is this difference in moisture content that ultimately leads to very tight joints and the longevity of the chair. Here is my version of a chairmaker's kiln... think of it as a big Easy-Bake Oven.
After the rungs are kiln dried they are shaved and tenoned to final size.
The rear posts are mortised to receive the back slats then shaved to final size.
Mortises are drilled in the posts to receive the rungs, then the chair is glued up in sections.
After glue-up, the back slats are shaved, bent and popped into place.
The slats are pegged, then the chair gets a final scraping and sanding and the finish is applied.
And finally, the seat is woven and the maker's mark is applied.